McCalls wrap dress sew a long reveal of Butterick 5030

Sorry I am a week late, to be honest I finshed a week early, however I had several events to attend, which set me behind.

Enough of that here is my finished look:

I made a few changes to the original dress, in the beginning I made view E which had a collar and long sleeves. After trying the dress on I wasn't feeling the collar, I think it was due to the fabric I used it didn't seem to lay the way I wanted. 

The other thing I noticed is how the dress looked when the facing remained outturned. The result was a slight high collar and a more modest (for me) neck line.

However, I had used every inch of my fabric so I didnt have enough to finish the facing, I decided to use an old technique my Godmother showed me from an old Vogue pattern using interfacing:

Sewing the knit interfacing to the dress facings as though it was fabric, I simply turned it over to the wrong aide,  pinned it down, and ironed it on as usual. The result is a nice finished edge:

The other change was making tie ends instead of using hooks and eyes. I thought this would be better, in that I could control how tight or loose the dress would fit. Also I felt it gave me more security from the dress opening:

and turn...

After working with the fabric I decided I will not be using the blue fabric for B6054. I feel the fabric would be slighñy to heavy for pleatings on the front of the skirt.

I will be using a cute ITY yellow and polka dot fabric in its place. Hopefully I will be finished with it to post next week:

Until then, have a chuckle at the silly out takes and I'll see you next time:

One stitch at a time............

Pea Coat Sew-A-Long Anne Klien V1467

At long last I have finished my version:

Inside view:

Off the shoulder:

Up close collar view:

Inside collar view:

I decided to make several design changes to my coat.....



The Fabric:

Sport bottom weight fabric from Joann's

With this weight fabric, the coat becomes a jacket, making it more inline with a Trench or Transition Coat, perfect for Spring/Fall days.

Lined shell:


For extra warmth. I decided to place an extra layer between the fashion fabric and coat lining. I did this by cutting out the back pieces from both the fashion fabric and muslin.


Placing them together, I sewed around the edges with a overlock stitch:

Back piece joined with muslin

Note the finished seams once all of the pieces were sewn together:

lined back pieces

And .....

Finished back view

The Lining:

I choose to make a full lining for my jacket. However, I did not cut out each individual back piece from the lining material, but instead choose to use the entire back to make the coat lining one large piece:

This helped me to avoid having to sew the V in the shell design again :-)

To make sure that the lining gave me plenty of room for comfort, I made sure to add an extra 1|2 inch to the side seams:

Taking the back lining piece, I sewed it together at the shoulder seams to the other lined pieces and fabric facing:

Once I sewed the side seams and added the lining sleeves, I placed the right sides of the fashion fabric shell and lining together sewing around the outer edge, stopping at self made circles were the collar was to be placed:

Final lining 

Next I tackled the collar and shoulder pads:

Can you see my goof?!

This is what happens when you keep going once you are tired, I sewed the shoulder pad in upside down (first pic :-)

Thrift Store Buttons:

  

After buying fabric, lining, and muslin, my funds were tight, and I didnt have money to spend on new buttons. Instead I went to the thrift store to see what I could find:

New uses....

It just so happen I found a old worn coat for only $5.00, and noticed the buttons would be perfect foe my jacket. Just think, the buttons (I needed 10 in all) came out to just. 50¢ a piece :-)

The Buttonholes!:

This is the part of the coat I was not looking forward too, the button holes. The reason being is it would be the first time using the feature on my new sewing machine. However, much to my delight it does excellent work:

So that's it, I must say that I enjoyed making to coat (jacket). The only draw back I would say are the sleeves, they seem to bind the the arm although I made my normal adjustments. Not quite sure what the causes is perhaps the lower arm pattern piece is 'off' (too short perhaps). Aside from that I would recommended.

Why just one, why not two? McCall's sew-a-long

The last time we spoke I was telling you about the new McCalls sew-a-long, and I had not decided between which fabrics I wished to use.



After mulling it over I decide on.........................................

Both!



I will use this navy blue polyester/spandex stretch with a crepe weave with Butterick 6054:

I found this fabric at Joann's in their Red Tag section, the nice part is it was during a 50% off weekend making this most excellent fabric only $6 a yard.

A closer look

The fabric is a light to medium weight with an excellent drape, not to mention it is a two way stretch fabric that B6054 calls for as well.


Two way stretch?

It means the fabric not only stretches width wise, but length wise as well.



So what did I decide to do with the light Pink/Coral fabric? Why not use it to make one of my favorite wrap dress Butterick 5030:

Here's a closer look:

As you can see I've already started to cut out B5030.

 The nice thing about working with knits is that often times I don't have to make the same adjustments I do with woven fabric such as cotton, linen and the like. The spandex is very forgiving and I tend to like my knit dress with a negative ease.

Negative ease?

An example, your normal size is a 35, the finished garment size is a 34.


In my case simply using my normal size without alterations, and taking advantage of the stretch, does the trick.


Well that's it for now, I will update again when I begin to sew B5030, and hopefully I would have started to cut out  B6054 as well.


Until then, take it one stitch at a time.

The Wrap Dress Sew-a-long

The McCall's Pattern Company has decided to do a Wrap Dress sew a long and I thought it was an excellent opportunity to get back into posting.

If you are interest in joining the sew-a-long, The McCall Pattern Company has several designs to choose from and you can find the pattern selections here on their Pinterest page:

McCall Pattern's The Wrap Dress


I have decided to make my entry  Butterick 6054:

 

I have two stretch crepe fabrics to choose from, one being a beautiful light coral and another a pretty deep blue/purple color.

I continue to go back and forward on which, I have just two yards of the blue fabric, which is the right amount I needed for the dress.  The coral fabric, however, I have three yards and am thinking maybe I should use this fabric with a pattern that will use all three yards. Waist not want not as they say :-)

Actually I was hesitant to make Butterick 6054 because it has a simular waist design to McCalls 6884 which I have already sewn:

The blog post of this project you can find here:

McCalls 6884

However, a girl can never go wrong with a dress that fits and flatters, am also hoping the shoulder design of Butterick 6054 is enough to make it stand on it's own.

Of course both of these patterns are made for knits but if working with knits makes you hesitate in joining the sew-a-long, know that there are other options to choose from. One of my favorites is Butterick's 5030:

It has various collar and sleeve options to choose from and is beginner friendly. 

Now if you are a more advanced sewer then maybe you would like to pick the Ralph Rucci dress Vogue number 1239:

Which ever you choose have fun with the project and if you like your work take a pic and post it here on McCall Pattern Company Fan Gallery Board on Pinterest:

McCall's Fan Gallery Board 

You can also tag your work on Twitter and Instagram with the hashtag:  #wrapdresssewalong.

Well that's it for now, next post I will up date you on which fabric I choose, until then, just remember to always to keep yourself together one stitch at a time.